How to make a penny board
Based on the traditional Penny Original 22″, this board has the same blueprint as board #2 had. The boards are pretty similar in terms of construction, but differ significantly in terms of details and artwork. contrary to the last board I wanted to focus on the material of this board and not cover it up with paint. To still be able to make the penny board interesting, a drawn motive or a sketch seemed like a suitable way of adding some decoration, and after some searching I ended up with a rough, old pin up sketch. It was perfect!
The challenge of drawing
I hadn’t drawn in years, and was not at all confident I could recreate the sketch myself. The last thing I wanted was to end up with an awkward looking pin up model in a failed attempt to draw by hand. Therefore I experimented with some alternative techniques for transferring prints to wooden surfaces. They all lead to a pretty bad finish, so I was left with the choice of either finding another motive or draw by hand. I opted for the last, and was pleasantly surprised with the result!
I managed to chip off a piece at the back of the board when sanding the edge. Since I wanted the wood finish it would be really hard to hide. A really thin piece of laminated teak from an earlier project I did saved the day and was used as a contrasting detail to the light wood of the board. Below you can see the process of applying and shaping the teak. Problem solved!
I applied my logo to the top of the board as a finishing touch. A couple of coats of clear varnish sealed the woodwork and the artwork, and with trucks attached the board was ready to ride. Check out the finished board below!
- Length: 22″ (58 cm)
- Width: 6″ (15 cm)
- Thickness: 0,5″ (1,2 cm)
- Concave: Yes
- Camber: No
- Trucks: No brand
- Wheels: No brand
PS: Check out the post “Board #1 – Longboard” if you find interest in the building process of these boards. The processes are more or less the same.